Guest writer Roderic Hall of Frontiers explores a new lodge in Africa
We have all become spoilt as travelling fishers over the last two or three decades. The world opened up to us and we have fished destinations that we never would have dreamt of when growing up. As someone who has worked in the fishing world since the late 1990s I have been fortunate enough to have fished in and travelled to many fascinating and remote places over the years.

However, a recent trip to Southern Africa was a reminder that there are still some fascinating places out there. Despite living in South Africa for more than a decade I had never visited Lesotho. This small country is completely surrounded by South Africa and contains the highest peak in Southern Africa. It is known as the Mountain Kingdom for a good reason, and I encountered some of the most awe-inspiring mountain passes I have ever driven. Recently Keith Clover, one of the owners and founders of African Waters, invited me to visit the remote lodge they have built on the Bokong River, near the Katse Dam, in the centre of Lesotho.
The drive from South Africa into Lesotho is easy. I spent the night in the charming small town of Clarens before heading to the border crossing the next morning. Everything is efficient and it takes a matter of minutes to exit South Africa and enter Lesotho. It is immediately apparent that you are in a different country. The landscape is beautiful and as the drive progressed and I left the built-up areas behind it became more and more spectacular. People use horses to get around and donkeys to carry loads up and down the steep terrain.

This is a country that often sees snow in the winter and the people have an iconic look with balaclavas and warm blankets to protect themselves from the harsh climate. From the border to the camp is a drive of around 4 hours. We can arrange transfers for groups which I would recommend unless you really want to do the drive yourself. The tarred roads were all excellent although vigilance is always required. You tend to miss the spectacular views if you are driving yourself and concentrating on the road. The last hour of the drive is off-road, on a gravel road that does become quite challenging, a high ground clearance vehicle is required.

Arrival at the lodge is quite spectacular. The last hundred metres or so of the drive involve quite a steep climb, then your car arrives on a flat grass area with the most amazing panoramic views over the river valley. The head guide and staff were waiting for me and quickly had taken my bags down the steep path to the lodge. The lodge is quite small and well laid out and the location is impossible to beat, with a stunning view up and down the valley from its position built into the hillside. There are four spacious twin-bedded stone cottages, two either side of the large kitchen/dining/relaxing building. There are also two full bathrooms, each with a separate bath and shower, shared between the four rooms. Considering the remote location the camp is very comfortable, and everything has been thought of. There are indoor and outdoor seating areas with a fire-pit and wood burning stove to keep you warm when the temperature drops. Wifi is only available from one spot outside the guides rooms and there is no cell phone signal, so if you do visit be aware you may be out of communication for a lot of the time.
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As suggested by the name, this is not just a fishing lodge run for commercial gain. The camp employs over 50 individuals from the local community on a rota with all staff training undertaken by African Waters. They also support a River Ranger programme whereby the local community provides protection to the natural resources by ensuring best practices and local legislation are adhered to. Sustainable cooking projects, water delivery programmes and logistical upgrades (footbridges and road building) are a few of the many projects the camp sponsors.

Guests are encouraged to bring contributions to the local community including stationary for the school and sanitary items and a percentage of the trip cost goes to the community. We walked through the local village several times on the way back from fishing and it is fascinating to see how people live in a way which is very little changed over the last century. Cattle pull single furrow ploughs to grow strips on maize on the hillside and the village is tidy and well kept. Transport for the locals is on foot or by horse and donkey with no cars in evidence. As a visiting fisher you do feel as if you have been dropped into a landscape that exists separately from the outside world and it is a real privilege to visit.

The fishing is of course why I visited. The lodge specialises in yellow fish and trout. At the time I fished, late November, yellow fish are the main target. They move from the enormous Katse dam into the Bokong River to spawn, much as salmon run from the sea to the river. It was extraordinary to see the large numbers of fish move through the pools. They behave in a very different way from trout or salmon, rather than holding on a lie they cruise throughout the pools and move up and down the river depending on water temperature and so on.

The fishing is very technical and challenging, and extremely exciting. Generally, you fish either dry fly or very small, weighted nymphs and you will be sight casting to fish. The yellows do spook quite easily and the water is gin clear, so stealth is very important. The fish are numerous and often a good size. I fished during a period when the fishing was difficult, but the week before the fish had been really on and everyone landed multiple fish. Yellow fish over 60cms are considered noteworthy here and I saw quite a few that size in the river. These fish fight hard, much harder than you would expect for their size, are very selective and are a worthy quarry. It is not unlike New Zealand fishing, walking quite long distances stalking fish in gin clear rivers.

The season runs from November to April, which is spring to autumn, and the trout fishing tends to be in the second half of the season. We caught some smaller trout but the larger ones are caught later in the season. Unusually, for this part of the world, you can catch both wild browns and rainbows.

The lodge normally hosts between six and eight fishers and people stay for different periods, from four days to ten days generally. The guide team are top-notch, very enthusiastic and knowledgeable and a pleasure to fish with. Although they were all quite young, they were very professional and could not be more helpful. We were also fortunate to have Hannah from the UK who was in charge of producing delicious meals (the guides also assisted with this making it a team effort). There was a great atmosphere in camp and a palpable team spirit. This was helped by the other guests, all of whom were repeat fishers, always a good sign.
This trip is not for everyone as it is physically quite demanding, especially given that the height above sea-level leaves you gasping for breath after walking up the steep slopes sometimes! You will walk several kms a day, much of it uphill, downhill or along the rocky riverbanks. Fishing is either wet wading or fishing from the bank and is not too taxing although it is a help if you can cast from a crouching position. It is also very technical; sight fishing with 4-weight rods and dry flies or nymphs requires a lot of concentration. However, it is also very rewarding fishing and I for one learnt a lot and came away feeling that I had become a more considered fisher. As someone who has fished a lot with heavier tackle for salmon or aggressive predators it was a steep learning curve to handle the light tippets with care when striking or playing fish.

I would really recommend this trip for those looking for something different. The fishing is exciting and challenging, but this trip is about so much more. The absolutely stunning scenery, the insight into how the local people live and the whole Lesotho experience make it a unique adventure. The lodge itself was also a pleasure, with lovely touches such as large free-standing bathtubs with lots of hot water and delicious dinners eaten with everyone, staff and guests, around the large kitchen table. I would guess that many people reading this know South Africa very well but have not visited Lesotho. My advice is to have a few days at Makhangoa Community Camp on your next trip to Southern Africa and catch a few yellow fish or trout on the Bokong River.